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Retirement Calculator

Estimate how much your retirement savings could grow to, and how much you could withdraw each month once you get there.

Your age today. This sets how many years your savings have left to grow before retirement — the single biggest lever in compound growth.
The age you plan to stop working and start withdrawing from savings. In the US, 65–67 lines up with full Social Security eligibility, but you can retire earlier or later.
The age through which your withdrawal estimate is spread. Planning past average life expectancy (roughly 78–84 in the US) reduces the risk of outliving your savings.
The total you already have saved across 401(k), IRA, brokerage, and other retirement accounts today.
$
How much you add to retirement savings every month, combining your own contributions and any employer match.
$
Expected average annual investment return while you are still contributing. The S&P 500's long-run historical average is around 7–10% before inflation.
%
Expected average annual return once you start withdrawing. Most retirees shift to a more conservative mix of investments, so this is usually lower than the pre-retirement rate.
%
Used to translate your future nest egg into today's purchasing power. The US average inflation rate over the past 30 years has been about 2.6% per year.
%

Projected Savings at Age 65

Example

Starting with $20,000 today and contributing $500 a month for 35 years at a 7% average annual return, you would have approximately $1,130,650 saved by age 65 — $230,000 of that is money you contributed, and $900,650 is investment growth.

Total Contributions

$230,000

Investment Growth

$900,650

Years to Retirement

35

Estimated withdrawal income in retirement

Monthly Withdrawal

$6,609.67

depletes by age 90

4% Rule Monthly

$3,768.83

a common rule-of-thumb

In Today's Dollars

$460,438

inflation-adjusted balance

Projected balance, split between your contributions and investment growth

  • Your Contributions: $230,000
  • Investment Growth: $900,650

What is a Retirement Calculator?

A retirement calculator projects how your current savings and ongoing contributions will grow over time through compound investment returns, then estimates how much you could safely withdraw each month once you stop working. It answers the two questions every retirement plan has to answer: "will I have enough?" and "how much can I spend once I get there without running out?"

This tool models both phases of retirement planning — the accumulation phase (working years, when contributions and growth build your balance) and the withdrawal phase (retirement years, when that balance is drawn down to cover living expenses). Adjust your age, contributions, and expected returns below to see how each one changes your projected outcome.

Balance growth vs. contributions over time

Year-by-Year Savings Schedule
Year Age Contributions Growth Balance
0 30 $20,000 $0 $20,000
1 31 $26,000 $1,642 $27,642
2 32 $32,000 $3,837 $35,837
3 33 $38,000 $6,624 $44,624
4 34 $44,000 $10,046 $54,046
5 35 $50,000 $14,149 $64,149
6 36 $56,000 $18,983 $74,983
7 37 $62,000 $24,599 $86,599
8 38 $68,000 $31,056 $99,056
9 39 $74,000 $38,413 $112,413
10 40 $80,000 $46,736 $126,736
11 41 $86,000 $56,094 $142,094
12 42 $92,000 $66,562 $158,562
13 43 $98,000 $78,221 $176,221
14 44 $104,000 $91,156 $195,156
15 45 $110,000 $105,460 $215,460
16 46 $116,000 $121,232 $237,232
17 47 $122,000 $138,578 $260,578
18 48 $128,000 $157,611 $285,611
19 49 $134,000 $178,454 $312,454
20 50 $140,000 $201,238 $341,238
21 51 $146,000 $226,103 $372,103
22 52 $152,000 $253,198 $405,198
23 53 $158,000 $282,686 $440,686
24 54 $164,000 $314,740 $478,740
25 55 $170,000 $349,544 $519,544
26 56 $176,000 $387,298 $563,298
27 57 $182,000 $428,216 $610,216
28 58 $188,000 $472,524 $660,524
29 59 $194,000 $520,470 $714,470
30 60 $200,000 $572,315 $772,315
31 61 $206,000 $628,342 $834,342
32 62 $212,000 $688,853 $900,853
33 63 $218,000 $754,173 $972,173
34 64 $224,000 $824,647 $1,048,647
35 65 $230,000 $900,650 $1,130,650

Savings by Retirement Age

Every row below is computed from your exact current age, savings, contribution, and return rate — only the retirement age changes. Use it to see how working a few extra years affects your final balance and withdrawal income.

Retirement Age Projected Balance Monthly Withdrawal
50 $341,238 $1,645.44
55 $519,544 $2,622.08
58 $660,524 $3,451.31
60 $772,315 $4,145.96
62 $900,853 $4,986.89
65 (current) $1,130,650 $6,609.67
67 $1,312,869 $8,013.83
70 $1,638,635 $10,814.27

How Is Retirement Savings Growth Calculated?

Retirement projections combine two compound-growth calculations: the future value of your current savings, and the future value of a stream of equal monthly contributions (an "ordinary annuity"). Both grow at the same assumed rate of return, compounding monthly.

FV = P(1+r)ⁿ + C × [((1+r)ⁿ − 1) / r]
  • FV — projected balance at retirement
  • P — current savings
  • C — monthly contribution
  • r — monthly rate of return (annual rate ÷ 12)
  • n — number of months until retirement

The withdrawal-phase estimate runs the same formula in reverse: given the balance at retirement, it solves for the fixed monthly payment that fully depletes the balance by your life expectancy, assuming the remaining balance keeps earning a (typically lower) return throughout retirement.

Why Starting Early Matters More Than the Amount

Because returns compound on top of previous returns, time in the market is the single biggest driver of a retirement balance — bigger than the contribution amount itself. Someone who saves $300/month starting at 25 will typically out-accumulate someone saving $500/month starting at 35, purely because the earlier saver's money has ten extra years to compound. A common guideline is to save 10% to 15% of pre-tax income per year throughout your working life; starting that habit at 25 can realistically build a seven-figure balance by traditional retirement age at a moderate return rate.

This is also why inflation quietly erodes retirement plans that look fine on paper. The average US inflation rate over the past 30 years has been around 2.6% per year — low enough to ignore day-to-day, but compounded over 30–40 working years it can cut the purchasing power of a nominal dollar amount roughly in half. That is why this calculator also shows your projected balance in today's dollars.

The 80% Rule and the 4% Rule

Two widely used rules of thumb simplify retirement planning. The "80% rule" holds that an income of roughly 70–80% of your pre-retirement income is usually enough to maintain your standard of living after you stop working, since certain costs (commuting, retirement contributions themselves, payroll taxes) disappear. Someone earning $100,000/year might therefore target $70,000–$80,000/year in retirement income.

The "4% rule" translates a target retirement income into a savings goal: divide your desired annual income by 4% to estimate how much you need saved. For a $60,000/year target, that works out to $60,000 ÷ 0.04 = $1.5 million. It comes from research on how long a diversified portfolio can sustain 4%-per-year withdrawals (adjusted for inflation) without running out over a 30-year retirement — a useful sanity check alongside the more detailed month-by-month projection this calculator produces.

Where Retirement Income Actually Comes From

Personal savings are usually only one leg of retirement income. Social Security is designed to replace approximately 40% of a typical worker's pre-retirement income — meaningful, but rarely enough on its own. Employer-sponsored 401(k) plans often include a matching contribution up to a set percentage of salary; not contributing at least enough to capture the full match is effectively leaving free money on the table, since the match itself is an immediate, guaranteed return no investment can match.

Traditional 401(k)/IRA contributions are made pre-tax and grow tax-deferred, but withdrawals are taxed as ordinary income. Roth accounts work the opposite way — you contribute after-tax dollars, but qualified withdrawals in retirement are entirely tax-free. Beyond retirement accounts, pensions, rental income, dividends, and part-time or passive income can all supplement the balance this calculator projects.

Example — Your Current Inputs

Starting with $20,000 today and contributing $500 a month for 35 years at a 7% average annual return, you would have approximately $1,130,650 saved by age 65 — $230,000 of that is money you contributed, and $900,650 is investment growth.

At a 5% return during retirement, that balance supports approximately $6,609.67 per month until age 90 — or $3,768.83 per month under the simpler 4% rule.

Additional Example — Starting at 25 vs. 35

Imagine two savers who each contribute $400/month at a 7% average annual return until age 65. The first starts at age 25, contributing for 40 years; the second starts at age 35, contributing for 30 years. The 25-year-old ends up with roughly $1.07 million. The 35-year-old, despite contributing the exact same monthly amount, ends up with only about $490,000 — less than half — purely because of the missing decade of compounding.

To close that gap, the 35-year-old would need to contribute nearly $900/month — more than double — for the remaining 30 years to reach the same $1.07 million. This is the clearest illustration of why "start now, even with a small amount" beats "wait until I can contribute more."

About These Parameters

Current Age & Retirement Age
These two values determine the length of your accumulation phase — the number of years your contributions have to compound. Even a five-year difference here can change your projected balance by tens of thousands of dollars, since compounding accelerates in the later years of a long time horizon.
Life Expectancy
The age through which the withdrawal estimate spreads your balance. US life expectancy at birth is roughly 78–80 years on average, but someone who reaches 65 in good health often lives well into their 80s — planning conservatively (age 90–95) reduces the risk of outliving your savings.
Current Savings & Monthly Contribution
Current savings is the starting balance across all retirement accounts today. Monthly contribution should include both your own contributions and any employer match — the match is effectively free additional growth and should always be counted toward your total contribution rate.
Return Rate Before / During Retirement
Most financial plans use a higher growth-focused return rate (often 7–10%, based on long-run US stock market averages) while still contributing, then a more conservative rate (often 4–6%) once retired, reflecting a shift toward bonds and other lower-volatility assets that protect against needing to sell investments during a market downturn.
Expected Inflation Rate
Used only to convert your projected nominal balance into today's purchasing power — it does not change the nominal dollar projection itself. The long-run US average is about 2.6% per year, though any individual decade can run higher or lower.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much do I actually need to retire?

A common shortcut is to save 15 to 25 times your desired annual retirement income. Another is the 4% rule: divide your target annual income by 4%. For a $70,000/year lifestyle, that suggests roughly $1.75 million. Your real number depends heavily on Social Security, any pension, expected healthcare costs, and how long you expect retirement to last — this calculator's year-by-year schedule gives a more personalized estimate than a flat rule of thumb.

Should I count on Social Security in this calculator?

This calculator only projects your personal savings, not Social Security or a pension. Social Security is designed to replace roughly 40% of a typical worker's pre-retirement income, so most people should treat this calculator's withdrawal estimate as a supplement to — not a replacement for — Social Security income. Relying on Social Security alone is possible but rarely advisable, since benefits are calculated to replace only part of pre-retirement earnings.

What's the difference between a Traditional and Roth account for this calculation?

This calculator projects growth before taxes and does not distinguish between account types, since the compounding math is identical either way. The difference shows up at withdrawal: Traditional 401(k)/IRA withdrawals are taxed as ordinary income, so your real spendable amount is lower than the number shown here. Roth withdrawals are tax-free in retirement (if qualified), so the number shown here is closer to your actual spendable income. Many savers hold a mix of both to manage their tax bracket in retirement.

Why is my "return rate during retirement" lower than before retirement?

Most retirement plans gradually shift from growth-focused investments (mostly stocks) toward more conservative, income-focused investments (more bonds and cash) as retirement approaches and continues. This reduces the chance of being forced to sell investments at a loss during a market downturn to cover living expenses, at the cost of lower average long-term returns. You can set both rates equal if you plan to stay fully invested in retirement, but most financial planners recommend some de-risking.

What if I'm behind on retirement savings?

Increasing your monthly contribution rate has an outsized effect the closer you are to retirement, since there's less time for compounding to do the work instead. Workers age 50 and older are also allowed to make additional "catch-up" contributions to 401(k)s and IRAs beyond the normal annual limit. Delaying retirement by even two or three years both extends your accumulation phase and shortens the withdrawal phase your savings need to cover — use the retirement-age comparison table above to see how much difference a later retirement age makes for your specific numbers.

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